TOKYO -- On weekends, Shimokitazawa feels less like a Tokyo neighborhood than a village in a 1960s art-house film. Young Japanese sport green hair, guitar cases and bags stuffed with secondhand clothes. The aroma of drip coffee wafts along lanes, and handwritten signs point the way to basement music venues known as live houses. People flock to "Shimokita" by train, but the maze-like streets belong to pedestrians.