This dish, if served in a Chinese restaurant, would cost a little more than other egg dishes, not because the ingredients are expensive (they’re not), but because it’s a bit fiddly to cook – although not difficult. The egg is pan-fried into small, thin omelettes before being folded over a meaty filling. I use a small wok, but a small skillet works, too. If you want to get more luxurious, substitute cooked crabmeat for the shrimp: just steam a crab (a flower crab would be ideal), then, when it’s...