In a previous column, I outed my pre-pandemic dating life as a middle-aged newly single Chinese woman in the United Kingdom. Six months into my spreadsheet approach to love (100 daily Tinder swipes, 50 culls and a literacy-and-basic-human-decency filter), however, I decamped to China – on sabbatical, to research xiaolongbao, and for the anthropological thrill of being a shengnu (leftover woman) on home turf (sort of). China greeted me with a shrug. On Tinder and Baihe in Hong Kong, Shenzhen and...